Wesley’s Bold and Most Furious Statement of Purpose
a.k.a. The intro to the travel column. Freely skip if you’re not new here.
Photos by Wesley Miller and Harrison Neville
If you’ve spent a decent amount of time outside of the South, then you’ve probably noticed that people who aren’t from here don’t think much of Alabama. When asked why, they generally have little to offer beyond a vague prejudice rooted in what they know from the 1950s. Tellingly, I have yet to meet a critical outsider who has actually been here.
Because here’s the thing: Alabama is a place of wonders.
We are, for example, the most biodiverse state in the country — and no one else even comes close. We house the decaying remains of one of the most globally prosperous — and infamous — civilizations in recent human history. We also offer the traditional cosmopolitan comforts — arts, entertainment, and some of the best food in the country — all without big city traffic. Shoot, we’re even the only state with an alcoholic drink, and a moonshine at that, as our official state beverage.
None of this is to say that we’re perfect. We’re not. But while there are things we can do better, there is quite a bit that we do right.
The purpose of this column, however, is not to win converts from anywhere else. The better we keep the secret, the less likely Birmingham becomes the next Nashville — sorry Nashville, but you know it’s true. Instead, the hope is to remind us all that we live in a special place. And with a little time and gas money, there is plenty to explore and enough adventure here to last a lifetime.
Outdoor Explorations, A Postcard Downtown, and Award-Winning Cheese in Elkmont
When Alabamians look to get their small town fix, most people probably head to Fairhope for the beaches, or Mentone for the mountains, or emerging stars like Wetumpka or Athens. Each of these is well worth your time, and I hope to ramble their way in the future. But, when I created this column, I did so out of an appreciation for Alabama’s underdog status: a beautiful state brimming with overlooked stories and adventure.
In that spirit, our first trip was to the small and little-known, yet deeply storied, Black Belt town of Greensboro. This time around, we took that ethos to its extreme by visiting a town much smaller to show that, even here, adventures abound.
And, truly, it’s difficult to find a town any smaller than Elkmont. The little guy is about five miles south of the Tennessee state line with just over 400 people who call it home. You know that big rocket that used to rise above I-65 at the northern Alabama welcome center? Head a few miles southwest from there, and you’ll find yourself in Elkmont.
Like me, you might be a bit perplexed by the town name since, you know, Elkmont has no elk and most certainly isn’t on a mountain. As it turns out, the town is indeed named after elk, which used to roam freely and in abundance throughout the town — a thought that strikes me as both magical and sad. The “mont” refers to the town’s historical location as the highest point on the rail line between Birmingham — yay! — and Nashville — eww! In 2023, it’s a small community of welcoming people who care deeply about their beautiful little corner of Alabama and are working hard to thoughtfully manage the coming development boom.
Downtown
Given that whole population-of-400 thing discussed above, you won’t be surprised to learn that downtown is tiny, and I mean tiny. This isn’t all of it, but it’s a good portion of the historic main strip. As it turns out, downtown is also pretty quaint and a welcome spiritual breath away from the strip malls of larger towns.
Various historic buildings surround downtown, including this one: the first doctor’s office in north Alabama.
We stopped by town hall, and the woman working there, Tonya — who was perhaps making an educated guess about our maturity level — showed us to the free stickers. But listen, I don’t care how old you are: anyone who claims not to want free stickers is a liar.
The slogan, “it never leaves you”, is taken from a story about a long-ago rotating Methodist preacher. Upon first arriving in Elkmont, a local man welcomed him but proudly warned, “if you wear out a pair of shoes here, then you’ll never leave.” The locals thought that this captured their sentiments, so they adapted it for their motto.
Waterfalls, and How to Find Them
While researching Elkmont, I came across photos of a waterfall. Unable to figure out its location, I asked Tonya if she could direct us. She said that she wasn’t sure, so she called in the chief of police, Donnie.
We quickly learned from Donnie that Elkmont has not just one, but two waterfalls. When we asked for directions, he told us to just follow him.
And follow Donnie we did. We ended up parked here, about a ¼ mile off the road at an unmarked trailhead in a neighborhood called the Elkmont Rural Village. After we observed that this place would be tough to find for the first time, Donnie told us that anyone who wanted to visit was welcome to stop by the town hall. He’d be happy to show you how to get there.
As a city dweller, I found this sort of small-town hospitality disarming, but perhaps it’s commonplace.
As for the waterfalls, here’s the first one spilling into a six-foot limestone bowl. Quite pretty.
One waterfall’s not enough? Turn around, walk a few steps the other way, and you’ll find yourself at another one. Even bigger and ready for a swim.
Cheese!
Back in town, follow the signs to this place: Belle Chevre. Artisan goat cheese? Free tastings? C’mon, there’s only one correct choice here. I won’t claim cheese expertise, but it strikes me as impressive that Alabama’s only goat cheese company has won a bevy of awards and been featured in a seemingly endless number of heavyweight magazines: Southern Living, Forbes, Oprah and so on.
But let’s get down to that whole “free tastings” business. That guy behind the counter, Carlos, looked after us during our visit. Carlos used to live in Orlando but moved to north Alabama for a change of pace. He was driving back roads one day and came across a “help wanted” sign in an Elkmont restaurant window and thought he’d apply. One thing led to another and “Here I am, years later, going around the country selling cheese. I never would have imagined it. When it’s time to turn that page in life, go for it. You never know what’s waiting.”
Richard Martin Trail
If you’re looking for a way to balance out your cheese intake with some exercise, then head over to the converted railroad trail. It’s about ten miles long and runs smack through the middle of town.
Unsure where to find the trail? Get your Narnia on and follow these lampposts. They’ll lead you right to it.
I should add that the town plans to connect the Richard Martin Trail with the Singing River Trail. Never heard of the Singing River Trail? Neither had I, but it’s under development and has the makings of an outdoor Alabama treasure: a 200+ mile walking and biking trail following the Tennessee River across the entire northern part of the state.
As for this trail in Elkmont…
It’s gorgeous. And while I tend to appreciate almost any trail, this one was especially serene — no housing developments or industrial parks at its edge. Just mile after mile of farms and natural scenery. Plus, lots of tree cover for the summer heat. Take it all the way to Tennessee, if you’re feeling so inclined.
If you head north for two miles, then you’ll find yourself at an old railroad trestle that has been converted into a covered bridge.
Not a bad looking spot. I couldn’t hear any traffic, planes or people — only the water.
On the way back into town, if you’ve worked up an appetite, then know that there is an exit back to the cheese.
If you take the trail about a mile south of town, then you’ll come to the Sulphur Creek Trestle. While I hope it looks large in this photo, I assure you that it is quite imposing in person. During the Civil War, it was a vital Union supply link — although it looked a bit different back then. In 1864, Nathan Bedford Forrest sacked the troops there and burned the bridge down. It was the bloodiest Civil War battle in north Alabama.
Of note: the trail goes over the old trestle, which has now been filled with earth. This photo was taken from beneath. If you want to get to this spot, know that it is a bit tricky to find. Take Sandlin Road south out of town, then turn onto Ridge Road. Once you get to the end, look to the right — you should see the trestle off in the distance. If that doesn’t work, then just revert to the Elkmont failsafe — stop by the town hall and ask for Donnie the police chief again.
Parting Thoughts
I don’t write traditional conclusions for this column. If you’d like to read my long and overly involved explanation why — and who wouldn’t, given that teaser? — then check it out here. If not, then well, I can’t blame you. All that to say, enjoy some final photos of lovely Elkmont, Alabama.
P.S.
If you find yourself with extra time, then I recommend that you head about 30 minutes north to The Yellow Deli in Pulaski, TN. Since time was limited, we didn’t manage to stop by during this trip, but it deserves a mention.
The restaurant is run by a small, communal religious group called The Twelve Tribes, and it is unlike any other place I have ever eaten. It’s housed in a beautiful, historic home; the interior looks lifted from a “Lord of the Rings” set; the food is delicious; and the people are welcoming.
All that to say, it is a delightful, affordable dining experience you will not forget, and the local highway north from Elkmont is lovely. Happy rambling.
Hit Wesley up to chat about Alabama here: [email protected]
Heckle him on Instagram here: @theatomiddustbin
Check in to see if he manages to get “The Alabama Ramble” Insta going here: @thealabamaramble
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